digital camera megapixel question?

lor

is higher megapixel the better? (image quality)
because i have a 2 mp camera and my brother has a 7 mp camera....when i compared the difference of photos.....i don't see any difference!.....
so that made me wonder???
i heard 4 or 5 megpixels are good enough for everyday pictures.....

Answer
In general higher resolution (more megapixels) means better image quality. There may be situations where that isn't true (i.e. where the higher resolution camera has a low quality lens and the lower resolution camera has a great lens) but generally more megapixels = better image quality.

There may be several reasons why you're not seeing any difference in the images.

1. Many times I've seen people unknowingly using cameras at lower resolutions than the camera is capable of. That lets you put more photos on your memory card, but the quality will be lower. If a 2MP camera and a 7MP camera are both set to 1MP resolution, they're going to look pretty much the same. Check to see if both cameras are shooting at their highest resolution.

2. If you're viewing the images on the camera display or on a PC screen, the resolution of the display or screen is far lower than the maximum resolution of the camera, so you probably won't see any difference. If your PC display is set to 800x600 resolution, that's less than 1/2 megapixel being displayed, so the images will look pretty much the same. Even a 19" monitor set to 1280x1024 is only about 1.25MP, so that's still far less than the maximum resolution of either camera.

3. If you're printing photos at 4x6, you probably won't see much difference. The differences will show up when you get to larger prints like 8x10 or larger. Like with the screen, the smaller size of the print isn't going to show the differences between the cameras. Large prints usually will show the differences.

If you're doing any image editing, having a higher resolution camera can be important. Say you have a photo of Uncle Frank at the beach and you decide you want to crop it down so that the lifeguard stand on the right and that goofy kid who jumped into the picture in the background on the left aren't in the photo and all you have is a nice close-up of Uncle Frank with the sand and water behind him. When you crop the image to only show the parts you want, you're reducing the effective resolution of the photo. If you crop out 1/3 of the image on the right and 1/3 of the image on the left, what remains is only the center 1/3 of the original image. If you shot the original at 7MP, that means that you have about 2.33MP left, because you threw away 2/3 of the image. If you shot the original image at 2MP, that leaves you with only about 0.67MP. You'll probably notice the difference between 2.33MP of image and 0.67MP of image in a 4x6 print.

So if you're going to be doing any image editing and/or printing at larger sizes, having a higher resolution camera may be a good idea. If you're doing just snapshots that you'll be printing at 4x6 or maybe 5x7 or just viewing on a PC screen, then you may not see any benefit to having a 7MP camera over a 2MP camera. And if the 7MP camera is set to shoot at a lower resolution, then there may be no difference at all.

Looking for a camera?

Q. I was looking to buy a digital camera to take pictures of my daughter, like outside, or running, and everything else kids like to do. She is one so she won't sit still so I need something that won't blur. Thanks!

Answer
There are so many cameras out there it is difficult to say which is best, but digital is definitely the way to go. The following link will be very helpful as it list most of the cameras out there with prices. http://reviews.cnet.com/digital-cameras/ ...

What gives a camera its picture quality? The following information should help you know what to look for in a camera.

The short answer is that it is mostly the skill of the photographer that produces high quality pictures. The lens and camera are very important, but the ability to set the scene, adjust the cameras settings, and hold the camera very still or use a tripod with auto or remote shutter actuation when required is what gets the great pictures.

Many of the new cameras come with only an LCD screen. Would suggest that you find one that also has an optical view finder because the LCD screen is almost impossible to see in bright sun.

Higher mega pixels may not really be the best thing to look for. It is more expensive, takes longer to process, and may not be needed unless you are making a really large picture or blowing up a small part of a picture. http://www.kodak.com/eknec/PageQuerier.jhtml?pq-path=398&pq-locale=en_US&_requestid=2039 ...

Lots of great camera tips in these two links. http://www.danscamera.com/Learning/going_digital/#resolution ...
http://www.kodak.com/eknec/PageQuerier.jhtml?pq-path=38/10468/6368/333&pq-locale=en_US ...

Check this camera. FUJIFILM - FinePix 10.0-Megapixel Digital. This is more camera for the money.
Wide-angle shooting, a 12x optical zoom and picture stabilization mode combine in this camera for exceptional shooting performance, even at a distance. Plentiful scene modes, autofocus and automatic white balance controls make this camera a snap to operate. Life time Warranty (Parts & Labor).You may be able to find it on the Internet for a lower price ($144), but be careful of the vendor.
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage.jsp?skuId=8879234&type=product&productCategoryId=pcmcat152400050001&id=1212192673855 ...

This could be the best slim line camera. It's PINK!
http://shopping.yahoo.com/p:Sony%20Cyber-shot%20DSC-W150%2FR%20Digital%20Camera:1995337750;_ylc=X3oDMTB0bjZzaWNuBF9TAzk2NjMyOTA3BHNlYwNmZWVkBHNsawNlbGVj ...

The information about my camera is just to show that you don't need the biggest and best. Just know how to use the one you have.

My camera has 5.2 mega pixel, but I use 3 most of the time because it gives great results, is faster, and takes less memory. Also, it only has a 3 x optical zoom and 7x digital zoom. I never use the digital zoom because making pictures larger works better on the computer. This is an old camera, but everyone is impressed with the quality pictures it takes ... like magic.

Check with the Geeks in several stores and compare prices. Ask what cameras they own, but don't believe everything you hear. Once you select a camera read all about it in the owner's manual. You may be able to view the owners manual at this link. http://www.retrevo.com/s/digital+camera ...

The source links will show most of the cameras out there with prices and help make your digital cameras work better.

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Shopping for a DSLR camera! Which one?

Dani

I want one : with a high megapixels. The software where it can focus on one color and the rest black and white (I'm not sure what that's called.)& also other kids of editing things.(: Easy to use and not too giant. A pretty good price.

Do you have any suggestions? Thanks so much! I'm going to ask for one for my birthday and I've been in the market for a while, but I can't find one that is quite right.(:
Blackriver Images:
That is AMAZINGLY helpful! Thanks you! What is your opinion on Olympus E-620? It is pricey but it looks looks and sounds like a great camera. & thanks for the info about that software, that's exactly what I was talking about.(: the photo in the link is REALLY good.
Basically the highest I would want to pay is $700. <-- at the max.

Answer
Update:

I don't know much about the Olympus but it does review really high. The only downside with the off brands is there is less room to expand say if you decide to keep going further with your photography. There is just so much more equipment to choose from with regard to lenses and compatible accessories such as wireless lighting/flash gear as well as secondary programs if you stick with the "big 3" brands... They will always make sure they can process Nikon, Canon and even Sony RAW files but other brands tend to come last.

I would give you a heads up about the Olympus though. It does have a smaller sensor than any of the cameras I mentioned. This effects crop factor and can effect low light performance. Smaller sensors also has a negative effect on wide angle photography. Lastly the Olympus uses a less common card format. Compact flash and xD. The other cameras I listed all use SD and the Sony's use both SD and their own Memory stick (They take both).

Here is a list of the pros/cons of the Olympus from basically the most respected camera review site on the web.

http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/OlympusE620/page31.asp

I think if your comfortable spending 700 then go for the Nikon D5000.

I guess I should mention that I use the Sony A330 and love it. I look into all the other cameras in brands because I'm a junkie but I'm happy with the A330, until I decide to go to the next level.

Here's another image with that effect you described.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/blackriverimages/4283474041/in/set-72157622917148937/

------------------


Your really looking at two separate products. The camera and then the software. I doubt that any camera would come with the software advanced enough to selectively de-saturate an image. I personally use ACDSee Pro 3.0 and it makes it very easy but it's not cheap at $169. It will do a lot more very useful things.

I did this image with ACDSee Pro 3.0.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/blackriverimages/4281729874/in/set-72157623430840370/

As far as the camera...

For under $600 including a kit lens your looking at;

$449 Sony A230 + 18-55mm lens.
$549 Sony A330 + 18-55mm lens. (A230 with lilt LCD and live view mode)
$549 Nikon D3000 + 18-55mm lens.
$569 Canon Rebel XS +18-55mm lens. (also has live view mode)

Price: Obviously the A230
Ease of use: Either Sony, D3000 close second
Image quality: Close enough that it's just opinion
Low light performance: Nikon D3000
Durability (if your rough on your cameras): Defiantly D3000
Grip/feel: Small hands go with either Sony, larger hands D3000 or XS. Test them before you buy, and hold them as you would if you were shooting.

I mentioned the live view because a lot of people coming from point and shoots like to have the ability to compose on the screen. Sony's live view is much better than the average point and shoots live view ie. very fast and responsive, and uses main auto focus. Canon's live view will be similar to the LV in any point and shot. ie. there will be a shutter lag and the auto focus wont work as well as in normal mode. So if live view is important to you take a good look at the A330. If not then all of these are nice options.

If you want to spend a little more take a look at these models;

Sony A500 $749
Nikon D5000 $629
Canon XSi $649

Best digital camera for shooting kids?

m_manary

Looking for one that has rechargeable batteries, like you plug the entire camera into a socket to recharge (biggest pet peeve is digi-cams that eat batteries like candy) 12 mega-pixels, shoots still shot and video (I don't want a recorder that does still cause I hear they shoot craptastic pics), cool features, easy to use with SD card, and finally no more then $250.
If you do not use P & S cameras what do you use? I've never taken a photography class and my Dad always had an expensive Nikon with two lenses and back then it was all film.
Thanks for everyone's input and after doing a lot of reading and realizing our old camera which we loved but died after 3+ years of use was a canon power shot we are going with the Cannon PowerSot SD780 IS, if after a few weeks of use we do not like we will give the PowerShot SX120 IS a try.

Answer
I changed from P&S cameras to my DSLR because of two problems - low light issues and shutterlag.
My little P&Ss made me miss so many opportunities with my kids and other subjects.

However, it sounds like you do want just a P&S. Here is my usual speech on the subject, I'm sure you will find something helpful in it:

At least 10 - 30 times a day someone on YA asks: "Which one is a good camera to buy?"
A quick search would have given you hundreds of instant replies (without having to wait for answers), but once again here is my 10 cents on the subject:

Point & Shoot cameras are wonderfully handy because of their small size.
When light conditions are ideal, they even take really nice photos - all of them do.

However, they all DO have limitations - they don't do very well in low light situations (i.e. noisy photos, hard to avoid blur, etc). The little onboard flash is very harsh at close range, and doesn't reach very far.
Many of them have no manual functions, so you are limited to only very basic photos, you can't compensate for unusual situations, or do many fun "tricks" and special effects.
P&S's also suffer from frustrating shutterlag and many of them chew through batteries rather quickly.

If you're ok with all those limitations, then go ahead and pick one, most of them (the same type and same price range) are rather similar. Personally I would pick either a Canon or a Nikon, and would certainly stay away from Kodak.

A higher end P&S will give you more manual options and better quality. Many of those even give you the option of adding a proper flash (which makes a big difference to your flash photos).

Don't worry too much about megapixels - all modern cameras have plenty enough, plus there is a limit to how many pixels you can squash into a tiny P&S sensor before you actually LOSE quality rather than gain it.
Don't worry about digital zoom, in fact, don't EVER use it. It simply crops away pixels, i.e. destroys information. The only real zoom is optical.


Some words about special effect features such as color accent, or even just b/w or sepia:
About applying any sort of effect in camera: DON'T DO IT !
Imagine if you just happen to take the best photo you ever took - surely you would want to have it in all its glory, right?
Always set your camera to biggest size, best quality (and to color).
That way, you start with the best possible photo as your original.
Then you make a copy and edit it to your heart's content.
You have much better control over any editing on your computer, even something as simple as b&w will look MUCH better when it was processed properly instead of in camera.
You can do all sorts of things to it PLUS you get to keep your original.


Decide which features are important to you, and look for cameras that have that feature.
Then go compare a few models on www.dpreview.com .

The very best thing you can do for your success is to borrow some books and learn about photography. A bit of knowledge will make a much bigger difference to your photos than your choice of P&S camera can.

For what it's worth - if I was in the market for a P&S camera right now, my choice would be a Canon Powershot SX20 IS http://www.usa.canon.com/consumer/controller?act=ModelInfoAct&fcategoryid=144&modelid=19208

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What is the best digital camera to buy under $1,000?

highest megapixel kids camera image

itsjustme

I want to get great quality pics from this camera. I want to be able to get different lenses for this camera. What are the good brands vs. not so good brands?? Thanks ya'll!

Answer
I LOVE my Nikon D40x. 10.2 megapixels means big, detailed images with great clarity, and the Nikon optics are first-rate. It's also got a great user interface, though if your photo store offers an introductory seminar (the Nikon rep in my city gives one about every month to new purchasers), it's well worth the time.

The D40x is a particularly good choice if you're a newcomer to photography as a hobby; if you just leave it in "auto" mode and let it do all the thinking about light, speed, etc., it'll take the best-looking snapshots you've ever seen. If you want to start learning a little about photography as a hobby, the D40x will let you change its settings in key areas that make a difference in how your photos will look, especially in "special" situations (low light, high-speed action shots, super-close macro shots, etc.)

For an example of how easy it is to use, take a look at this photo set on my Flickr account:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/sfisher71/sets/72157600287588436/

Many of those photos were taken by one or the other of my two kids, one 16 and the other 10 (check the tags for attribution). My 10-year-old had used the camera once prior to our visit to the Japanese garden, and some of his photos from his first day with the D40x are here:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/lightningcharlie/

Again, those are from a 10-year-old who had picked up the camera for the first time that day. The barrel of flowers, in particular, is stunning, and be sure not to miss the ladybug on the leaf in the closeup of the blackberry blossom.

Since you specifically mention lenses, the D40x has one limitation about the kind of autofocus lenses it accepts. Specifically, while some Nikon cameras include a built-in autofocus drive motor (with a pin that goes into the lens), the D40 and D40x do not. Therefore they can only use their autofocus mode with lenses that have their own built-in drive motors, meaning lenses in the AF-S and AF-I series. You can also of course use other Nikon lenses but you'll need to focus them manually, which is a worthwhile skill to develop for any photographer.

The link in the Sources field is a very detailed review of the D40x, with a list of the controls, the display elements, and much more information, including a comparison with some of its competitors (notably the Canon EOS, another good choice).

As a final observation, the "kit" price for the D40x with an 18-55mm zoom lens is $799, well within your price range. The lens I chose, an 18-135mm zoom, bumps the price just over your limit to $1029, but the flexibility of the additional 80mm was important to me as I do a lot of motorsports photography and am not always in a position to get right up close to the action. If you're really looking to save money, the camera body itself is $729, and you can shop for exactly the lens you want for the price difference. But if you can squeeze another thirty bucks out of your budget and you even occasionally take pictures from a distance, I highly recommend the 18-135 as a good all-around lens for everything from closeup to mild telephoto work.

What type of camera would take a picture of this good quality?

Jan

http://c2.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/90/l_4a7cb726ddd94899818d5e6ac53d8951.png


Like, it just seems of such high quality. Is it the megapixels, or is a type of setting?
Because I ordered a 10.1 megapixel camera, but I don't know if there's more to a good quality picture than megapixels.

I'm new to this whole camera thing. xD

Answer
Of course there's a LOT more to photography than megapixels! To get a good quality picture you need to have enough lighting (and also the right kind of lighting). But if you have enough light and you hold the camera steady, then pretty much any decent camera can take a picture like that. In fact, there's really nothing special about that picture at all. Some girl just held a camera above her head and took a picture of herself. You'll see a million other pictures like that on MySpace. At least her picture is clear and in focus, unlike most of the pictures that the emo kids take of themselves on MySpace.

But don't get fooled by megapixels. That is definitely NOT the most important thing. You can take decent pictures even with a 3 megapixel camera. What's more important is the quality of the lens, and the lighting. In fact, I can take very clear, super sharp and detailed pictures with a manual 35mm FILM camera.

Just to give you an example...I took these with my Argus C-3 camera. It's a vintage 35mm film camera, with completely manual exposure. (I take mostly landscape photos)

http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f86/gatewaycityca/FL000003.jpg

http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f86/gatewaycityca/FL000017.jpg
http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f86/gatewaycityca/LakeFulmor600DPIdresized.jpg

I know everyone seems to think that photography is all about megapixels and taking pictures with a point and shoot digital camera and "photoshopping" them. But the truth is that if you understand the basics of photography, you can take good pictures with pretty much ANY decent camera. I prefer to use a camera with completely manual exposure control though, so I can have more creativity with my pictures.

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