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Is there any bridge camera/slr-like camera that is capable of shooting portrait with shallow depth of field?
Please give me some suggestion.
I am hoping to get a bridge camera to create that kind of effect. The reason I don't want an DSLR is because of my budget. I could get an entry level DSLR, some people argue the price is closer to a bridge camera. But after adding some decent lens, it will be way more expensive than a bridge camera. The default lens that comes with an SLR usually doesn't do much.
Answer
You're talking about depth of field. Only two things affect depth of field magnification and aperture. The higher the magnification the shallower the depth of field, and the wider the aperture (the lower the f number) also reduces depth of field.
To maximise the effect (called selective focus) with your camera use maximum zoom and get as close as possible, both raise the magnification.
To make your camera use the widest aperture use as low a light as possible, unless your camera has Aperture Priority in which case use that and select the lowest f number.
One of the drawback to compacts and bridge cameras is their small sensor (which reduces the magnification by cropping). It's all so much easier with a DSLR and a fast lens. One of the reason why professionals buy expensive 70 - 200mm f2.8 lenses is to magnify this effect.
Go with a DSLR then you can always save for the lenses which make this effect easier, the larger sensor also helps too, they're just so much more versatile than a bridge camera. You can put the camera on on an astronomical telescope and photograph the heavens or on a microscope and photograph cells, and everything in between.
It can be done in Photoshop or similar, but its a pain as you have to accurately select what you don't want to be blurred, its much easier to do it in camera.
Chris
You're talking about depth of field. Only two things affect depth of field magnification and aperture. The higher the magnification the shallower the depth of field, and the wider the aperture (the lower the f number) also reduces depth of field.
To maximise the effect (called selective focus) with your camera use maximum zoom and get as close as possible, both raise the magnification.
To make your camera use the widest aperture use as low a light as possible, unless your camera has Aperture Priority in which case use that and select the lowest f number.
One of the drawback to compacts and bridge cameras is their small sensor (which reduces the magnification by cropping). It's all so much easier with a DSLR and a fast lens. One of the reason why professionals buy expensive 70 - 200mm f2.8 lenses is to magnify this effect.
Go with a DSLR then you can always save for the lenses which make this effect easier, the larger sensor also helps too, they're just so much more versatile than a bridge camera. You can put the camera on on an astronomical telescope and photograph the heavens or on a microscope and photograph cells, and everything in between.
It can be done in Photoshop or similar, but its a pain as you have to accurately select what you don't want to be blurred, its much easier to do it in camera.
Chris
HELP! I what DSLR camera should I get?
100% FLiNG
I'm not too impressed by mega pixels because my Fuji Film Z20fd 10.0 mega pixel digital camera takes horrible pictures! My sister's 8 mega pixel digital camera took way better pictures, but it was also a Sanyo...Anyways, I'm now looking into getting a DSLR camera because I want to start up photography as a hobby, but in order to do that I need a great camera that can take amazing professional grade pictures in any light and any situation...I'm leaning towards a Nikon D5000 or maybe a Nikon D90, but I'm a novice at this so I need some advice before I go and drop nearly a grand on a camera, I don't wanna make the same mistake twice and spend tons of money on a camera that turns out to be utter crap! Any suggestions?
Answer
First, repeat this 100 times: "It isn't the camera, its the photographer."
Memorize this quote: "Pictures are not taken, they are made." Ansel Adams.
Cameras DO NOT "... take amazing professional grade pictures in any light and any situation ...". A person knowledgeable about light and composition and exposure and skilled in their use will use a camera to make good pictures.
I have never owned a camera that took great pictures.
I have never owned a camera that took lousy pictures.
I have used a camera to make some great pictures and I have used a camera to make some lousy pictures. The camera gets no credit for the great pictures and no blame for the lousy pictures. I, the photographer, get both.
So unless you are willing to take the time to learn about light and composition and exposure and then practice to develop the skill to use that knowledge you may as well keep the camera you have and save your money.
Taking a couple of photography classes would be the best way to learn about light and exposure and composition. If classes just aren't possible then you'll have to learn on your own.
Reading a few books on photography before you decide what camera to buy would be smart. Here are some suggested books:
"Understanding Exposure" & "Understanding Shutter Speed", both by Bryan Peterson.
"Digital SLR Handbook" by John Freeman.
Regardless of which camera you buy, plan on spending a lot of time READING & STUDYING the Owner's Manual before trying to use the camera.
To show that the camera is just a tool, like a hammer or saw, here are some pictures I've made over the last few months using a vintage (circa 1972 or thereabouts) Minolta XE-7 35mm film camera.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/drifter45h/4048047921/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/drifter45h/4048797582/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/drifter45h/3982233634/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/drifter45h/3991210245/
The bench and lake pictures were made with the camera in Aperture Priority - I chose the f-stop and let the camera worry about the shutter speed. The camera was mounted on a tripod. A tripod is all but mandatory for good landscapes.
The night scenes were made with full Manual control of the camera. I used the "B" setting on the shutter speed selector and counted off my exposure - 1001, 1002, 1003, etc. to 1030. Tripod mounted.
In all four examples the camera was just a tool I used to do what I wanted to do. Yes, it participated in two of the pictures by setting a shutter speed but I could have just as easily done that myself.
My goal with "Lake Nevin" and "Bench" was to maximize my Depth of Field (DOF). Here is a site where you can begin learning about DOF:
http://www.dofmaster.com/dofjs.html
For my night photography I used information from this site:
http://www.calculator.org/exposure.aspx I'd say the suggested exposure for "Distant skyline" was pretty accurate. ISO 200, f11, 30 seconds.
So unless you are willing to devote a lot of time and effort to educate yourself about photography you'll be wasting your money on a D90 or D5000. Your results will be about the same as they are with your Fuji Z20fd.
"It isn't the camera, its the photographer."
First, repeat this 100 times: "It isn't the camera, its the photographer."
Memorize this quote: "Pictures are not taken, they are made." Ansel Adams.
Cameras DO NOT "... take amazing professional grade pictures in any light and any situation ...". A person knowledgeable about light and composition and exposure and skilled in their use will use a camera to make good pictures.
I have never owned a camera that took great pictures.
I have never owned a camera that took lousy pictures.
I have used a camera to make some great pictures and I have used a camera to make some lousy pictures. The camera gets no credit for the great pictures and no blame for the lousy pictures. I, the photographer, get both.
So unless you are willing to take the time to learn about light and composition and exposure and then practice to develop the skill to use that knowledge you may as well keep the camera you have and save your money.
Taking a couple of photography classes would be the best way to learn about light and exposure and composition. If classes just aren't possible then you'll have to learn on your own.
Reading a few books on photography before you decide what camera to buy would be smart. Here are some suggested books:
"Understanding Exposure" & "Understanding Shutter Speed", both by Bryan Peterson.
"Digital SLR Handbook" by John Freeman.
Regardless of which camera you buy, plan on spending a lot of time READING & STUDYING the Owner's Manual before trying to use the camera.
To show that the camera is just a tool, like a hammer or saw, here are some pictures I've made over the last few months using a vintage (circa 1972 or thereabouts) Minolta XE-7 35mm film camera.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/drifter45h/4048047921/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/drifter45h/4048797582/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/drifter45h/3982233634/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/drifter45h/3991210245/
The bench and lake pictures were made with the camera in Aperture Priority - I chose the f-stop and let the camera worry about the shutter speed. The camera was mounted on a tripod. A tripod is all but mandatory for good landscapes.
The night scenes were made with full Manual control of the camera. I used the "B" setting on the shutter speed selector and counted off my exposure - 1001, 1002, 1003, etc. to 1030. Tripod mounted.
In all four examples the camera was just a tool I used to do what I wanted to do. Yes, it participated in two of the pictures by setting a shutter speed but I could have just as easily done that myself.
My goal with "Lake Nevin" and "Bench" was to maximize my Depth of Field (DOF). Here is a site where you can begin learning about DOF:
http://www.dofmaster.com/dofjs.html
For my night photography I used information from this site:
http://www.calculator.org/exposure.aspx I'd say the suggested exposure for "Distant skyline" was pretty accurate. ISO 200, f11, 30 seconds.
So unless you are willing to devote a lot of time and effort to educate yourself about photography you'll be wasting your money on a D90 or D5000. Your results will be about the same as they are with your Fuji Z20fd.
"It isn't the camera, its the photographer."
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